Family makes spirtual pilgrimage to Spain

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Religious scholars can't say for certain if James the Apostle is buried under a cathedral in Santiago de Compostela in Spain.

But that didn't stop Victor Palomino of Normal; his sisters, Vickie Villamor and Linda Diaz; and his brother-in-law, Ralph Diaz, from joining the thousands of faithful who trek the St. James Pilgrimage Way.

"It is a spiritual journey. The harder the way, the more forgiveness for your sins," said Palomino, 62, a Spanish teacher at Heartland Community College, who made the pilgrimage this year.

James and his brother, John, were fishermen whom Jesus chose to be among the first disciples. Of the 12, they were among Christ's inner circle. They were told to preach throughout the world after the crucifixion, and James was assigned the Iberian Peninsula, including Spain. But some scholars doubt if he ever reached there. He may not have had time before he was one of the first martyrs of the Christian faith.

Still, legend says the body of St. James was taken to Spain and buried. The exact location was lost for 800 years until what some believe was his tomb was uncovered during the Middle Ages. The man who found it said the Virgin Mary led him there in a vision.

Since then, religious travelers have walked the St. James Pilgrimage Way, or the "Camino de Santiago" as it's known in Spanish. The trail extends 1,000 kilometers, or about 620 miles, from the Pyrenees and to the cathedral built atop the burial site.

Each year, 100,000 or more people walk at least part of the way. Those who complete at least 105 kilometers, or about 66 miles, on foot or by bike receive a certificate in Latin attesting to their feat when they arrive at the church. Palomino and his family walked the 66 miles in five days.

The pilgrims are part of a fast growing segment of the faith travel industry.

Christian travel alone attracts 150 million people worldwide, according to The Christian Post, a newspaper that recently launched its own travel section. The publication says overseas faith tourism by Americans increased by about 30 percent in 2007 alone - compared to 5 percent growth in overseas travel of all kinds.

Palomino's sisters and brother-in-law traveled from their homes near Charlotte, N.C. to join Palomino on the trip that was part spiritual, part family adventure and part endurance challenge. Palomino, a former school teacher and administrator in Chenoa and Odell, lost 30 pounds while training for the pilgrimage.

The trip also was a learning experience for Palomino, a native Cuban who was 12 when his family left the island before Castro's takeover in the late 1950s. At this point in his life, he enjoys immersing himself in the Spanish language when he has a chance. He's spent time in Mexico and returned to Cuba 10 years ago as a volunteer on a mission trip.

He knew the St. James Pilgrimage Way would allow him to experience Spain as Spaniards see it. Surprisingly, there's even a portion of the route that passes through a region where Gaelic influences remain strong.

The trail itself changes from a winding path just 10 feet wide through forest to gravel and blacktop roads. The route leads pilgrims through small towns, where Palomino and his family spent nights in hostels. Always clean, some offered private accommodations for two while others had dormitories holding 20 and more. The cost: about $15 per person per night.

They ate at local restaurants that offered "pilgrim specials," or they simply bought bread and took it to a park to eat and chat with the villagers they met. They drank local wines. On the road, they came across a woman herding cows and tasted a simpler beverage.

"She said, 'I want you to taste some of the milk,' so she gave us some milk she got that morning," Palomino said. "I found the people to be very friendly."

At another stop, women in a cafe shared a local homebrew made from coffee beans, sugar and alcohol. They lit it and chanted as it burned.

They were in too much of a hurry to stop and enjoy the festivals in some of the villages they passed. But they took time to take short detours. Once, they visited the small village of Petin, where Palomino's brother-in-law had distant relatives. Another time, they walked to a nearby ancient monastery, Vilar de Donas, the burial site of some of the members of the Knights Templar, protectors of the Christian faith who fought in the Crusades.

As Palomino and his relatives walked closer to the Cathedral of Santiago, they encountered more travelers. Most were chatting or seemed to be meditating. Once inside, a standing-room-only crowd listened as priests read off a list of the countries of origin of the pilgrims who arrived that day.

"I heard people from Germany, from the U.S., from Brazil, Korea, France, England. …It surprised me how many people from all over the world were there," he said.

The trip didn't come guilt-free. Pilgrims believe the harder the pilgrimage on the Camino de Santiago, the more sins are removed. But Palomino's load was lightened. He and his relatives learned they could hire a taxi every day to take their backpacks ahead to the town where they planned to stay that night. Taxi drivers would leave them at a predetermined location, a post office or gasoline station. They walked without the added weight.

"Every night, they would be there. But it felt like I wasn't carrying all my sins… a little cheating," he said with a grin. "It would be nice to taxi your sins away."

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