EL PASO - Steve Smedley's truck broke down one miserable winter night, but credit his misfortune for leading to a discovery: A restaurant called the Olive Branch had quietly opened at 101 Delaney Drive, off Interstate 39, in El Paso.

Smedley's truck moaned into the parking lot and stopped. Inside, he was feeling anxious while sipping coffee and waiting for a ride. A gentleman from the wait staff came over and lit the candle at his table. It did cheer Smedley, a photographer at the Pantagraph, if only a little.

Returning the next morning to tend to his truck, Smedley had breakfast. When I next saw him, he was raving about the Italian sausage and itching for an Eats adventure.

He had a lunch. I had a dinner. We split a dessert. We interacted with a great waitress named Tonya, and then we called over the manager and owners to collect some information and a portrait, as the lunchtime business rush had ended.

We loved the menu - both the array of American and Italian dishes and the physical menu itself. Its modern design exudes class, with swirl patterns matching the wrought-iron art on the walls. Pricing beckons the average diner.

For lunch, Smedley ordered a lightly breaded, skillet-cooked chicken breast. The dish came with tortellini marinara and fettuccini Alfredo. It was among the daily rotating specials, with soup or salad included, and came to just $7.

It looked every bit as tasty and filling as my dinner order: chicken linguini primavera. The dish included broccoli, roasted peppers and artichoke. Also served with soup or salad, it was $13.

Both dishes had a hint of garlic, and I could have used a bit more power. The chicken on both dishes was cooked to perfection. My only regret was foregoing a seafood dish. There are 23 from which to choose. Next time.

Presentation showed that real care is given to every plate. The plates for main dishes were sprinkled around the edge with parsley. The plates for the salad were cold, and the plates for the entrees were hot.

Etem Gaba is the chef and a co-owner. He goes by Tim.

He learned to cook in LaSalle County in 1984, when hired after relocation from Macedonia. His boss at the Bee Hive in Ottawa gave him the choice of cooking or washing dishes. "I'd never cracked an egg," he said, but he chose cooking because it paid more.

The boss was Ozzie Dzelil, a transplant from Turkey. (The Dz translates to a J sound.) Dzelil is a partner at the Olive Branch and splits time here and at his other restaurant, Maria's Pizza in Morris.

While at the Bee Hive, Gaba started dating a waitress named Laurie. The match stuck. Mrs. Gaba runs the front end of the Olive Branch.

To end our stay, Smedley and I shared tiramisu ($4.50 and imported from a Chicago bakery). It was a genuine pleasure, as was the company of the new restaurant's managers.

Essentials

• Olive Branch

• 101 Delaney Drive, El Paso. Opened in late January, the Olive Branch is west of Interstate 39. The location is about 20 miles straight north of downtown Bloomington. The site used to be The Ranch, but there is no connection between the businesses other than that.

• (309) 527-3322

• Hours: 10:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Friday; 6 a.m. to 10 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Breakfast available until 3 p.m. daily.

Food

The stuffed snapper is among the more popular dishes. The proprietors offer a balanced menu of pasta, beef, chicken and seafood dishes, plus sandwiches, soups, appetizers, salads and breakfasts. A children's menu offers about a dozen selections.

Drinks

Coke beverages and a full bar.

Money

Expect to pay $6 to $8 for a main dish at lunch and $10 to $12 for dinner entrees. Prime rib is featured on weekends for $13 (for 12 ounces) and $10 (for 10 ounces).

Considerations

A section for smoking is provided. The building is wheelchair accessible. Reservations taken for parties of six or more.

Carryout available. A side banquet room seats up to 50. The main dining space accommodates 160.