People who are learning to cook probably don't think of adding fish to their list of things to accomplish. Even experienced cooks shy away from most species, except maybe salmon and catfish.

But fish fits perfectly into summer menus, and cooking it is not complicated - just a little tricky.

Shiela and Joe McCord of Winchester, Ky., raise tilapia, and it's available fresh or frozen at their farm.

Shiela McCord prefers to grill tilapia, but it's also tasty pan-fried. "I throw mine in a little cornmeal mixed with pancake mix, salt and pepper and seafood seasoning, and fry it," she said.

"I was playing around with it this winter and came up with this: Put a stick of butter in an oven-proof dish and place in a 450-degree oven. When the butter gets brown, add the fish and sprinkle with seafood seasoning. Cook for 3 minutes; turn over and cook another 3 minutes."

John Cotton, co-owner of Lexington Seafood in Kentucky, said his customers prefer to grill fish. "I think it's a myth, but people say they don't want to stink up the house by cooking fish," said Cotton, who has lake perch and walleye from Canada, plus halibut, salmon, char and swordfish.

The biggest problems with cooking fish on the grill are fish sticking to the grill and getting seasonings to adhere to the fish. The staff at America's Test Kitchen discovered a fuss-free, foolproof method: Using long-handled tongs, dip paper towels in vegetable oil and brush over the heated grill grate.

Another reason that cooks fear fish is that it can go from undercooked to overcooked in a heartbeat. But you can cook great fish if you use a thermometer and cook to about 135 degrees.

Cooking methods, tips

A general rule for baking or broiling fish is 10 minutes per inch of thickness at 400 to 450 degrees, turning the fish halfway through the cooking time. This rule does not apply to microwave cooking or frying.

Fish less than ½-inch thick does not have to be turned.

If fish is cooked in a sauce or foil, add 5 minutes to the cooking time.

The cooking time for frozen fish should be doubled.

Seafood with low-fat content - including grouper, flounder and tilapia - should be basted when it's cooked with a dry heat method, such as broiling or baking.

When marinade is needed for basting, set aside a portion of the marinade before adding raw seafood.

Fish is done when the flesh becomes opaque and flakes easily at the thickest part.

Most fish will continue cooking for 1 to 2 minutes after being removed from the heat, so plan for this in the cooking time.

Broiling

Place fish, 1 inch thick or less, 2 to 4 inches from the source of heat.

Fish thicker than 1 inch should be placed 5 to 6 inches away from the heat.

Pan-fry or saute

Fry fillets in ¼ inch of oil for 3 to 6 minutes a side, or until it's golden and fish flakes easily.

Thickness of fillets will determine the cooking time.

Deep-frying

Place fish in single layer in deep kettle or saucepan, and cook in enough fat or oil to cover and permit fish to move freely; do not crowd.

Generally, the temperature of the oil should be 365 degrees.

Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, or until golden brown.

When cooking multiple batches, allow the temperature of the oil to return to 365 degrees before adding more fish.

Grilling

Preheat gas or electric grill. Start the fire about 30 minutes before cooking when using a charcoal grill.

Fish is best grilled over a moderately hot fire and on a surface that has been well oiled.

When coals are white-hot, spread out in a single layer. Adjust the grill height to 4 to 6 inches above the heat.

Use indirect heat for a whole fish.

Firm-textured fish - grouper, shark, swordfish and amberjack - grill well.

When cooking kebabs, put foods with the same cooking time together, as seafood cooks quickly.

Buying, storage, handling

The leading cause of food-borne illnesses is improper food handling, preparation and storage. Follow these tips to ensure good seafood quality and safety. Remember: Fresh fish of all kinds should have a mild, fresh aroma similar to the ocean. A stronger smell is not acceptable.

When grocery shopping, buy seafood last and keep it cold.

Storage at home:

• Store seafood in leak-proof containers for no longer than two days in the coldest part of your refrigerator at 32 to 38 degrees, or three to 10 months frozen. Shelf life will vary depending on product form and species.

Preparation at home:

• Thaw seafood in the refrigerator, never at room temperature. To use frozen seafood immediately, thaw under cold running water (1 to 2 hours per pound) or use the microwave defrost setting.

• Prevent cross-contamination between raw seafood and other food products.

• Wash your hands with hot soapy water before and after handling raw seafood.

• Do not drip seafood juices on counters, utensils or other foods.

• Thoroughly wash containers that held raw seafood before using them again.

• Always marinate seafood in the refrigerator, never at room temperature. Discard the marinade after use.

w When in doubt, throw it out. Do not taste a food if you even suspect that it might be spoiled.

SOURCE: Florida Department of Agriculture