Flowering houseplants are ideal for relieving some of the dreariness of late winter and early spring. One of the most beautiful houseplants is the Clivia, sometimes referred to as Kaffir or bush lily. Few plants provide more beauty for less care than the Clivia.

Originally only available to wealthy plant collectors, Clivias were very popular during Victorian times, particularly in England and Belgium. They were treasured because they grew well in shade, tolerated dry periods and provided bright, cheery blooms during the gloom of late winter.

Discovered in South Africa in 1813, the first plant of this species (Clivia nobilis) was sent to England in 1823 and was named for plant enthusiast Lady Charlotte Florentina Clive, baroness of Northumberland, who first cultivated and flowered the plant outside its natural environment. Over the years, Clivias have been hybridized to develop many different sizes, shapes and colors. The most advanced breeding of Clivias now takes place in the Far East, primarily Japan. The six main species are Clivia caulescens, Clivia gardenii, Clivia miniata, Clivia mirabilis, Clivia nobilis and Clivia robusta.

Though members of the amaryllis family, Clivias have neither bulbs nor rhizomes, but many thick roots. Their glossy green, leathery, strap-shaped leaves reach 2 or 2 1/2 feet long and 2 inches wide when mature. Striking variegated leaf varieties are now available as well. Chinese cultivars have shorter, round-tipped leaves grouped like a fan. Clivias usually bloom from mid winter through early spring. Most flowers are orange, red or salmon with yellow centers, though more rare colors such as yellow, pink and apricot exist.

Clivia miniata is the best known species. It is certainly one of my favorites. It has bell-like flowers rather than the tubular, pendulous flowers of the other species. Clivias grow best where they receive bright daylight, but little or no direct sun. An east or north window is perfect in winter. They can be placed outdoors under a shade tree in summer. Clivias burn in direct sun, so pick a spot with dappled shade. While they are outside, Clivias should be protected from excess moisture because heavy and prolonged periods of rain often cause rot.

In the wild, Clivias grow in forests under trees. Their roots run through the natural litter on the forest floor which provides them with abundant air for their roots and a good organic mulch to grow through. In their natural habit, their roots normally do not go down into soil; therefore, many gardeners use an orchid bark mix as a potting medium for them.

The best time to repot Clivias is in the spring when they are starting to grow which allows their roots to establish quickly. These plants prefer a slightly acidic, well-drained potting medium with fifty percent organic matter, such as peat moss or fir bark. Clivias flower best when pot bound, making it necessary to repot them only every three to five years. When repotting, select a pot that is no more than 2 inches in diameter larger than the existing container.

Watering is a very tricky issue for Clivias. It is very difficult to hurt them by letting them dry out, and it is best to err on the side of under watering them. Water Clivias only when the top inch of potting mix is dry to the touch. Always water them thoroughly until water drains freely at the bottom of the pot. This flushes salts from the soil and keeps the soil at the bottom of the pot moist which encourages roots to grow downward to reach water.

Over watering can cause rot which is often indicated by pale green leaves or orange cankers on the leaves. Water Clivias only during their growing season which begins after their winter rest.

During spring and summer, fertilize Clivias monthly with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer applied at half strength. Stop fertilizing in mid-September.

It may take a Clivia four or five years to bloom, but it is worth the wait. Most Clivias are considered mature and ready for flowering when they have twelve or more leaves. Clivias flower more reliably when given a rest period of at least one month beginning in late fall. Stop watering the plant during this period. If the plant starts to wilt, give it just enough water to lightly moisten the soil. The plant must also be exposed to cool temperatures. Temperatures should be between 45 and 55 degrees. Never allow Clivias to freeze. After the cool rest period, temperatures can be raised to between 65 and 75 degrees, and watering can be resumed.

When the Clivia starts to bloom, a tight cluster of buds will be seen deep down between the leaves. Turning the container daily will keep the flower stem from leaning to one side. If temperatures are too high, the plant will have bloom stalks that are too short, and the flowers will develop and open down in the neck of the plant. The flower stalks should be cut off at the base when the flowers have faded. This will prevent the plant wasting energy on seed production. Also remove any withered or brown leaves.

Mealy bugs, scales, spider mites, white flies and aphids can be occasional pests.

Clivias have a well-earned reputation as rugged houseplants and deserve a spot in your home. I think you will agree their flowers are spectacular.